Molly Abraham

Mercury Coffee Bar brings some life to Detroit ruins

Sit on one of the high-backed black stools at the stainless steel counter in the window at Mercury Coffee Bar, and you look out at the urban ruin of the somehow still-majestic Michigan Central Station.

Depending on your attitude, it's either a compelling view or a depressing one.

Todd Wickstrom, who unveiled the Mercury just two weeks ago with a group of partners including Phillip Cooley of neighboring Slows Bar BQ, sees it as akin to looking at the ruins in Rome.

That's the kind of upbeat attitude that permeates the place and is reflected in the enthusiastic young staff in gray T-shirts and black pants.

Perched on the corner of Michigan Avenue and 14th Street, the interior done up in colors so bright they are almost startling -- magenta, bright yellow and brilliant blue accenting glossy white walls and ceiling -- Mercury brings its sense of optimism to a neighborhood that is in full revival mode.

With the kitchen in the center of the main floor, fresh, whole vegetables and fruits piled high above the working area, and a shelf reassuringly filled with well-thumbed cookbooks, there's no doubt this is a place with respect for fresh food.

Step up to the counter and order from a menu that offers sturdy soups, such as one that is a riff on the Irish potato and cabbage dish called colcannon, and a brief but intriguing choice of panini and other sandwiches typified by such combinations as basil pesto, peperonata and mozzarella, or country ham, peach relish and cheddar.

All are available in half and whole sizes as are the impeccable salads, ranging from the combination of roasted beets, goat cheese, toasted pecans and spinach in balsamic vinaigrette to Michigan apple, dried cherries, arugula in lemon vinaigrette.

A few side dishes such as smoked salmon spread, marinated olives and seasonal fruit, round out the menu, which will change frequently.

Everything from the pure white plates and cups to the sea salt and hand-crushed pepper has been chosen as carefully as the room's cheerful color scheme.

Mercury serves only cured or smoked meats such as country ham, mole salami (made with some of the same ingredients as Mexican mole) and the Italian salami called soppresseta, all from artisan producers.

The bakery case in the room displays brownies, cookies, lemon bars and cakes made on the premises by Marta Garza, one of several Mercury workers from the neighborhood.

But what about coffee, you might well ask. It is very much part of the scene. In addition to espresso, cappuccino, latte and other coffee drinks, there is what Mercury calls "slow coffee" with beans ground to order from a choice of three varieties of single origin coffees, El Salvador, Honduras and Kenya. And there is "fast coffee" as well, Cuban-style El Diablo.

Given the high quality of the food and the coffee and tea, prices are remarkably affordable.

Mercury Coffee Bar is in its infancy. There is much more to come, the partners say, including more reliance on products grown by urban farmers, and ambitious plans to create a garden in Roosevelt Park, the triangle of land in front of the old depot.

But even before any of that happens, Mercury Coffee Bar impresses with its appealing food and notable coffee.

You can reach Molly Abraham at (313) 222-1475 or abraham67@comcast.net.