Molly Abraham

Shangri-la spin-off has big variety in small menu

Fans of authentic Chinese fare have something to cheer about now that Midtown Shangri-la has debuted in the long-dark space that once housed Twingo's Cafe.

The spin-off of Shangri-la in West Bloomfield Township, which opened on Oct. 1, may not have the extensive menu or elaborate décor of the original, but there is much to like in its selection of dishes and woodsy setting.

Just the fact that the proprietors, Cholada Chan and her son, Joey, have brought dim sum -- the tea house fare that includes steamed and pan-fried dumplings, pork-filled buns and pastries and other small plates -- is a major boost to the culinary quotient of the Wayne State University neighborhood.

Although dim sum is traditionally served at midday, it's available any time at the new restaurant and is particularly suited to sharing, since many of the items are served in multiples of two or three.

Some of the stand-outs on the dim sum menu include delicately aromatic chicken curry tucked into flaky pastry, barbecued pork inside shiny buns, beautiful egg tarts that look like miniature lemon pies, garlic chive pancakes and steamed spareribs with black bean sauce, among nearly 40 selections.

Dim sum carts are used in West Bloomfield, but not here. They will be added as the restaurant settles in, but for now the delectable morsels are served from the kitchen.

There's much more than dim sum, of course.

The big bowls of noodle soups are notable, and they are available in varieties that include shrimp, beef, roast pork, braised beef brisket and minced pork along with egg, flat rice or bean thread noodles.

They are in addition to the expected lineup of wonton, egg drop and hot-and-sour soups that are pretty much standard at Chinese restaurants.

While the Chans bow just a bit to perceived American tastes with such dishes as almond and sweet and sour chicken, there are many more authentic preparations such as jumbo shrimp with spicy salt, roast duck and ginger scallion beef on a sizzling plate for those who want the true taste of China.

The bit of curry on the menu is a reflection of Cholada Chan's heritage. She was born in Thailand of Chinese parentage, and so there is a small selection of red, green and massaman curry dishes with coconut milk, kaffir lime and Thai basil.

There's also a touch of her country in the evocative and artistic photographs taken on trips to Thailand, China and Cambodia displayed around the balconied dining room with its wood tables and benches and simple color scheme.

The Chans wisely adapted to the space, leaving it with the look of the cozy French café it once was while bringing in the more exotic menu.

There are still improvements to come, but Midtown Shangri-la is adding a real spark to the neighborhood in the early going.

abraham67@comcast.net (313) 222-1475