Sandra Silfven

Wine competitions tell the real story of quality

Big wine competitions -- as opposed to big glossy wine magazines -- provide wine evaluations based on the worthiness of what's in the bottle -- not on the label or who advertises.

Wine judges at the big international events never know whose wine they are tasting. There's no chance of being swayed by a particular producer or its reputation. And at competitions that do not sort wines by price, the results can get interesting. A delicious Two-Buck Chuck can compete shoulder-to-shoulder with the high-rent stuff.

And oh, by the way, you'll seldom read about the results of wine competitions in wine magazines -- they would compete with the mag's own wine ratings.

At the Riverside International Wine Competition in Riverside, Calif., May 2-3, price was not a consideration. It's a unique event considering its age, 28 years; its organizer, the feisty and demanding wine journalist Dan Berger; and the judges, an elite team handpicked by Berger -- a who's who of winemakers, writers, sommeliers and educators.

There's no blood on the judging tables at the end of the day, but as a participant, I can tell you all the bad stuff is weeded out.

This year's list of gold medal winners, announced recently at www.riversidewinecompetition.com, included six Michigan wines -- and that's a feat.

The competition had 1,770 entries. Judges of interest included Gary Eberle of Eberle Winery in Paso Robles; pioneering winemaker Dr. Richard Peterson, who helped shape the California industry; Riesling and Zinfandel pro Scott Harvey of Scott Harvey Wines; ex-Penfolds winemaker Daryl Groom of Groom Wines; and Eric Miller of Pennsylvania's Chaddsford, a leading winery in the East.

Here are the Michigan golds and a few of the more curious winners.

• From Michigan: Bell Lago Pinot Grigio-Chardonnay 2007, $11.99; Black Star Farms Arcturos Riesling 2008, $16.50; Chateau Grand Traverse Whole Cluster Riesling 2007, $12; Circa Estate Winery Chardonnay 2007, $18 (Circa, in Lake Leelanau, opened this spring); Peninsula Cellars Dry Riesling 2007, $14.99; St. Julian "St. J" Pinot Grigio 2008, $9.99.

• Low-cost, surprise winners available locally: Domaine Ste. Michelle Extra Dry Sparkling Wine, $13; Sutter Home Zinfandel 2007, $4; Meridian Pinot Grigio 2007, $10; Black Opal Chardonnay 2007, $8; Bogle Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2007, $9; Target Wine Cube Merlot 2007 (box wine), $15.99.

Wine ssilfven@detnews.com (313) 222-2440