Kate Lawson: Simply the Best

Morel risotto is a reason to celebrate

May is always reason to be joyful in Michigan. I love to watch the transformation of the garden as the leaves seemingly pop out overnight from the trees, the hostas unfurl from the ground and the perennials burst with blooms. The light is bright, the air is crisp, and sometimes I just walk outside and stand so I can take it all in.

My yard has a lot going on, but sadly, one thing it's lacking is my favorite springtime treat -- morels. A couple of years ago, I actually spied a black morel under the old apple tree. I was weeding and looked down, and there it was. I recall that I was startled. But alas, there was only one, so I figured if I left there, it would return the following year and bring along some friends. It was not to be, however, and since that time I think I actually disrupted the bed by transplanting bluebells. Oh, well, sometimes life is full of missed opportunities.

But it's also full of surprises, and last week when my editor asked me if I wanted some morels that her husband had plucked from their yard, I jumped for joy.

She brought me a couple of beauties the next day. They were good-sized yellow morels, and I wasted no time that evening in preparing a risotto with asparagus and morel sauce. Yes, it was a little labor intensive as I stood over a pot of hot rice endlessly stirring until it became creamy and tender. The dish was even more delicious than I'd hoped, and the next day, I was back out in my yard. Only this time, I wasn't standing -- instead I was crawling around on hands on knees willing that lonely morel to make an appearance just one more time.

Missed opportunities indeed, but for one delicious moment, I could celebrate May with a Michigan morel

Risotto with Asparagus and Morels

Recipe adapted from Gourmet

3/4 ounces dried morel mushrooms (1 cup) or 4 ounces fresh

6 1/2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

2 cups water

1 pound medium asparagus, trimmed and cut diagonally into 1-inch-long pieces

1/3 cup finely chopped onion

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 cups arborio rice

1/2 cup dry white wine

2/3 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus additional for serving

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1/4 cup unsalted butter, cut into pieces

1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic

1/2 cup frozen baby peas

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest

2 teaspoons chopped fresh chives

Soak dried morels in warm water to cover 30 minutes, then rinse in cold water to dislodge grit. Pat dry. Cut crosswise into 1/4 -inch-thick slices.

Bring broth and water to boil in a 4-quart pot. Add asparagus; cook, uncovered, until crisp-tender. Transfer drained asparagus to bowl of ice water. Drain and pat dry. Reserve 1 cup broth mixture for ragout; keep remaining broth at a simmer.

Cook onion in oil in a 6-quart heavy pot over moderate heat until softened, about 3 minutes. Add rice and cook, stirring constantly, 1 minute. Add wine and simmer, stirring constantly, until absorbed, about 1 minute. Add 1/2 cup broth mixture and simmer briskly, stirring constantly, until it's absorbed. Keep simmering and adding broth mixture, about 1/2 cup at a time, stirring constantly, letting each addition be absorbed before adding next, until rice is tender and creamy-looking, 18 to 22 minutes. (You will have some leftover broth, which you cn keep for thinning risotto.)

Stir cheese, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper into risotto; remove from heat, let stand, covered, while making ragout.

Heat 2 tablespoons butter in a 10-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until foam subsides; sauté morels and garlic, stirring occasionally, until garlic is golden, about 4 minutes. Pour in the cup of reserved broth and bring to a boil. Stir in peas, asparagus, zest and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are heated through, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and add remaining 2 tablespoons butter, swirling skillet until butter is incorporated; season ragout with salt and pepper.

Thin risotto to desired consistency with some of leftover broth, season with salt and pepper. Divide risotto among 4 shallow bowls. Spoon ragout (with liquid) on top and sprinkle with chives and more cheese. Serves 4.

Per serving: 677 calories; 25 g fat (12 g saturated fat; 33 percent calories from fat); 88 g carbohydrates; 46 mg cholesterol; 1,526 mg sodium; 22 g protein; 5 g fiber.

60 minutes

40 minutes to bake

20 minutes to cook

Simply the Best klawson@detnews.com (313) 222-6026