Lynne Rossetto Kasper: The Splendid Table

Sandwiches are perfect for going on a picnic

Dear Lynne: Can you give me some ideas for food to take on a picnic? I'm romancing a man who loves to eat and I really want to make an impression. Any thoughts on something easy to pull off, but interesting?

Christina from Austin

Dear Christina: You are a wise woman, as there is nothing more romantic than a picnic. And for those looking for their first spring revel, this is about as easy to pull off as it gets.

Nearly any food is portable, of course, though I think we often overlook the obvious -- the sandwich. I can't imagine anyone who loves to eat being able to resist France's Pan Bagna, or Vietnam's Banh Mi. Both are sandwiches with a lot of attitude backed by solid irresistibility.

The Pan Bagna is the mother sandwich of the Provence region of southern France. This is the place (and the sandwich) where those overused adjectives "sun-drenched" and "luscious" really apply.

Pan Bagna runs to many versions, but the basic technique is to layer olive-oil-packed tuna, a little minced garlic, anchovies, tomato, cucumber, fresh basil leaves and oil-cured olives into a hollowed-out round roll or on a length of French bread that has been drizzled with good-tasting olive oil. ("Bagna" means "bathed.") Fold it together, wrap it up in paper or plastic and then squish the entire thing so the flavors marry.

There is, of course, the rumor that Provencal workers would SIT on the sandwich on their way to work, which sounds slightly dicey, but could be great fun for a kid. I cover the sandwich with a baking sheet or a plate and throw a few cans on top for weight. When the sandwich has been pressed, cut it into serving sizes and dig in.

If you're considering packing wine as well, Provence makes the best dry roses in the world -- roses born to go with Pan Bagna. If you want to pull back the wine budget to next-to-nothing, check out the white Portuguese paveo, which I've found for as low as $6 a bottle, or the low-priced dry rieslings from Oregon and Washington state. Beer is good with the sandwich, too.

The Splendid Table Lynne Rossetto Kasper hosts "The Splendid Table" national radio show and is the co-author of "The Splendid Table's How to Eat Supper." Ask questions at www.splendidtable.org.