Kate Lawson: Simply the Best

Chive-infused oil gives zip to creamy cheese dip

The first of the herbs to poke their heads above ground in my garden every year are chives. Dependable and pretty, I love their mauve-colored flower heads that pop open at the end of May and make a nice border to the herb garden as well as a delicious addition to a salad of greens and vinaigrette.

Related to the onion and leek, chives are the easiest herbs to grow. And while their peppery flavor makes them the perfect garnish (try adding a handful of chopped chives to a pretty spring soup such as vichyssoise or cucumber and watch the dish come alive), they're also terrific for adding flavor and color to a variety of dishes from mashed potatoes to salsas to some fluffy scrambled eggs and even a batch of biscuits. The blossoms also look so beautiful -- and add some pizzazz -- when added to a bottle of white wine vinegar.

This time of year, I'm always looking for a neat dip to serve when friends drop by or I'm invited across the street for cocktails. Opening a container of salsa is easy, sure but this dip is worthy of good friends and neighbors and makes good use of my abundant crop, especially when you add some creamy cheese to the mix. You can make the dip several hours ahead and bring to room temperature 30 minutes before serving.

Serve with a good-quality cracker or a hearty sourdough toast, as the recipe instructs. Either way, wherever you go, you'll be invited back.

Chive Dip with Pine Nuts

Recipe adapted from Gourmet

3/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh chives plus 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives (2 to 3 bunches)

1/4 cup vegetable oil

3/8 teaspoon salt

1 (12-inch-long) sourdough baguette, sliced diagonally 1/8 inch thick

1/4 cup pine nuts

2/3 cup mascarpone (4 3/4 ounces) at room temperature

2 tablespoons cream cheese at room temperature

Purée 3/4 -cup chives with oil and 1/8 -teaspoon salt in a blender until smooth, then chill 1 hour.

While chive oil stands, put oven racks in upper and lower thirds of oven and preheat oven to 375 degrees. Divide bread slices between 2 baking sheets and toast, switching position of sheets halfway through toasting, until golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Leave oven on.

Toast pine nuts in a shallow baking pan in lower third of oven, shaking pan occasionally, until pale golden, 4 to 5 minutes. Cool, then coarsely chop.

Pour chive oil through a fine-mesh sieve into a small bowl, pressing on, and then discarding solids. Stir in pine nuts and remaining 2 tablespoons chives.

Whisk together mascarpone, cream cheese, and remaining 1/4 -teaspoon salt in a bowl until smooth. Fold in chive oil with pine nuts until cream is streaked (do not mix in thoroughly). Transfer dip to a shallow bowl and serve with toasts. Serves 8.

Per serving: 268 calories; 18 g fat (6 g saturated fat; 60 percent calories from fat); 21 g carbohydrates; 25 mg cholesterol; 401 mg sodium; 6 g protein; 1 g fiber

klawson@detnews.com (313) 222-6026