Jocelynn Brown: Handmade

Professor whips up unique garments in spare time

As the prolific knitter and crocheter who owns Artisan Knitworks in Grosse Pointe Park, Sandra VanBurkleo will quickly tell you her work as a history professor at Wayne State University "has to come first."

However, judging from the rate at which she designs and produces one-of-a-kind garments sold in her amazing fiber studio, you'd never imagine her without a pair of knitting needles or a crochet hook in hand. She even teaches both fiber arts at the studio, where classes taught by other yarn enthusiasts include spinning, sock knitting, needle-felting and dyeing.

VanBurkleo, who lives in Grosse Pointe Park, designed this colorful crocheted shawl after "test driving a filet stitch pattern." She describes it as "fancy enough for a flamenco dancer, but elegant enough to take to the ballet over black velvet." Discounted yarn kits for making the shawl are available at the studio.

Madrid shawl

Estimated time: 15 hours

Level: Advanced beginner

Tools: Crochet hook size H, darning needle, scissors

Supplies: Noro Silk Garden Lite (7 balls)

Blocked shawl measures 18 by 80 inches without ruffle.

Abbreviations: SC single crochet; DC double crochet; CH chain; Sts Stitches; YO yarn-over

Stitch pattern (multiples of 3 plus 2):

Row 1: (SC into next DC from previous row, ch 2), repeat across row; end SC; ch 5 to turn.

Row 2: (DC into next SC from previous row, ch 2), repeat across row; end DC; ch 4 to turn. Repeat these two rows.

Chain 78 sts (add groups of 3 for added width).

First row: SC in 4th ch from hook, (ch 2, skip 2 ch, SC in next ch) across row, ch 5. Work pattern stitch, beginning with row 2. Continue block pattern for about 80 inches, ending with row 1.

Darn in yarn ends. Stretching slightly, block with steam and pins (blocks need to be squared). Designate a right side and one long side as upper edge.

Row 1 : Beginning at top upper right corner, RS facing, work 1 row sc all around the shawl, ending with top edge completed. For long sides, work 1 sc in every st, and 2 sc in each ch-2 space. For short sides, work 1 sc in each row, and 2 sc in each ch-2 space. When done, ch 3 to turn.

First ruffle row: (DC in next sc, ch 1) around (doubling sts), end DC. Work short side, bottom edge and other short side. Do not work top edge. Ch 4 to turn. At corners, work 3 DC/ch-1 sets.

Second ruffle row: (DC in next ch-1 space, ch 2) around, end DC, ch 5 (increasing by slightly fewer than in first row), end dc. Ch 5 to turn. At corners, work 3 DC, ch-2 sets.

Third ruffle row: (DC in ch-2 space, ch 3) around, end DC, turn without chaining. At corners, work 3 DC, ch 3 sets.

Fourth ruffle row: Work shells as follows: (skip ch space, DC 5 times in next DC, skip ch space, sc in next DC) around 3 sides. In corners, work shells with 7 DCs. Top edge: At end of ruffle, work 2 shells across ruffle itself; then 1 small popcorn where ruffle meets top edge, and continue across top edge with popcorns. To work small popcorns: Ch 2, skip next 2 sts, work 3 DC in next space without working final YO in each DC, then do final YO through all 3 sts, YO to link) across top edge. Work second ruffle edge, exactly as first. Fasten off. Darn in ends. Lightly block.

Contact: Artisan Knitworks, 15222 E. Jefferson Ave., Grosse Pointe Park. (313) 823-4132. Web site: www.artisanknitworks.com.

Detroit News staffer Jocelynn Brown is a longtime Metro Detroit crafter who knits, crochets, beads and makes soft-sculpture dolls. You can reach her at jbrown@detnews.com or visit her blog at detnews.com/craftblog.