Last Updated: August 07. 2009 1:00AM

Kate Lawson: Simply the Best

Mind your manners with corn

The woman next to me at the farmers market was ripping the husks off the corn like an FBI agent searching for contraband. She tossed several half-shucked, perfectly fine ears back into the pile no doubt looking for a worm or crooked row of kernels. Considered right up there with taking your dog to the market, it was rude behavior.

What the woman obviously didn't know was that once the ear is picked, it begins to turn to starch and loses its sweetness. Removing part of the husk only hurries along that process, and that means don't shuck corn until you're ready to cook it.

Here's the thing about buying corn or any produce at a farmers market. It's fine to gently feel a tomato or peach or plum to check for ripeness -- but please, no poking and no stripping. The farmer picked that tomato, herb, peach or ear of corn the night before and got up at 2 a.m. so he could get to market early and bring you the freshest produce. The very least you can do is show some respect.

If you want to ensure that you get a good ear of corn, there are ways to determine that without desiccating it.

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First, choose a lightly colored ear, feel for heft and gently squeeze to make sure the husk is filled out. Look for insects by checking for tiny holes near the tip and base or if the silk has been broken off. Silk should be dry, dark brown and slightly stuck together. The husk should be soft. If the outer layers are dry, the corn will be dry and flavorless.

Once you get it home, try to cook as soon as possible but keep it chilled before you boil, roast, grill or even eat it raw. (Go ahead, it's delicious.) And if there is a worm, pick it off and cut out the damaged kernels. Now, how easy is that?

Here's one of my favorite ways to prepare corn. (beside munching it right off the cob dripping with butter and salt). This crispy skillet corn cake, which I make a few times every summer is always a hit.

klawson@detnews.com (313) 222-6026

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    Crispy Skillet Corn Cake

    6 ears corn (bicolor, yellow or white)
    2 tablespoons canola oil
    1/2 teaspoon salt
    1/3 cup flour
    2 tablespoons minced chives (optional)
    Place a 10-inch cast-iron skillet in a 425-degree oven for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, remove kernels from the cobs by standing them in a large bowl and, using a sharp knife, cut straight down along the ear. Using the dull side of the knife, scrape all the milky solids from the cob. This is important to help moisten the batter.
    Combine corn, salt and flour, and optional chives, to make a thick, dry batter.
    Remove skillet from oven and film bottom with oil and let heat in skillet for a minute or two.
    Scrape batter into skillet; do not stir but pat gently into place. Bake until a crust forms on the bottom and top turns golden brown, about 20 minutes. Remove, invert cake onto serving plate and cut into wedges. Serves 4.
    Per serving: 234 calories; 8 g fat (1 g saturated fat; 31 percent calories from fat); 38 g carbohydrates; 0 mg cholesterol; 311 mg sodium; 6 g protein; 4 g fiber.

    20
    minutes

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