Celebrating cider season

A chill in the air means it's time to think apples

Kate Lawson / Detroit News Food Writer

The cider mills have been open since Labor Day, but now that there's a chill in the air, there are cider lovers everywhere across Metro Detroit.

"These cool, crisp nights are the perfect conditions for apples," says Katrina Schumacher, who owns Westview Orchards, along with sister Abby Jacobson. "They ripen to their natural sugar and are so nice and sweet."

Apples are Michigan's largest and most valuable fruit crop, with a total economic impact estimated at $450 million annually. And nice and sweet apples mean great cider. Families that head to Westview Orchards in Washington Township refresh themselves with a doughnut washed down with cider after an afternoon of apple picking, but cider can be used for so much more than sipping out of a glass.

The sisters are the sixth generation of the Michael Bowerman family to work in the business, which began as a small garden and orchard in 1813. Now they oversee 188 acres of fruit trees and crops, 120 acres of which are apples.

Of course, there are several mass-market ciders available in supermarkets (made from apple concentrate or with a yeast culture added for consistency). But for the true cider lover, there's nothing like natural cider from the mill, in its purest form with nothing added.

"I'm amazed at the growing number of people who want the real apple cider, unpasteurized," says Schumacher, who says Westview practices the latest in cider-making technology using the purest safety standards. "People who have been drinking apple juice and pasteurized cider tell me they can't believe how good the fresh tastes."

At Michigan cider mills, the cider is an unfermented and unfiltered liquid produced by pressing apples. The apples are picked (fallen apples are never used, as they can contain dangerous bacteria and toxins), ground into a pulp and pressed to make cider. The drink, which retains a small amount of apple pulp, is opaque with a rosy-brown color.

However, unpasteurized cider can be risky for pregnant women, small children and those with a compromised immune system, so if you have health concerns, you should note that most cider sold at mills and fruit stands is not always pasteurized. Cider sold in stores is heated to 160 degrees or treated with ultraviolet light to kill any pathogens.

Using unpasteurized cider for cooking is considered safe because it will almost always be heated to about 160 degrees. Just make sure it is stored and refrigerated properly and used before the end of its shelf life.

When it comes to her apple preferences, Schumacher lists an old favorite, McIntosh, as well as Winesap (for pies), Enterprise ("tastes like a Red Spy but sweeter") and Fortune, a new variety of Spy apple.

"We grow several varieties, but right now we're picking Red and Yellow Delicious, Empire and Cortland, and soon Jonagold and Fuji," Schumacher says. "It's also a good value. Families can come and pick a peck of apples for $12 or a half-bushel for $22."

Schumacher is astonished at the number of people who want to know how to make applesauce and shares the following tip:

"I peel the apples and simmer them in cider. That way, I can use less sugar, and you have a fresh and naturally sweet dish that's so flavorful," she says. "No matter what I put on the table with it, the dish of applesauce always turns up empty."

Good for you

• Boiled cider, made from cider that has been reduced, is a great sweetener, used since colonial times for baking and flavoring. It's a dark-brown syrup with an intense apple flavor. The general rule is to boil down 7 cups of cider into 1 cup of syrup. Drizzle it on apple pie, cake, ice cream or even oatmeal.

• Unfiltered apple cider contains higher amounts of polyphenols (natural antioxidants that protect us from cancer) than commercially bottled apple juice.

• A recent study comparing apple cider to apple juice shows that apple cider's higher-pectin content may have a greater protective effect against colon cancer.

• Fresh cider can be frozen. Pour it into containers (plastic milk cartons that have been washed in warm, soapy water and rinsed well), and allow ample head space, since cider expands as it freezes.

Source: Michigan Apple Committee

Cooking with cider

Appetizers

• Serve apple cider chilled and garnished with a wedge of lemon or lime, orange slice, a chunk or spear of pineapple or a strawberry or cherry.

• Mix it half and half with orange juice, tomato juice, beef broth, ginger ale or other clear soda pop for new flavor combinations.

• For an easy Italian ice, freeze apple cider until mushy consistency and serve in a small bowl topped with sour cream.

• Serve it hot, mixed with chicken broth and a little lemon juice, for a tangy broth to be served with small crackers.

• Mix sour cream and cider with finely chopped herbs and blend to make a dip for raw vegetable pieces.

Beverages

• Mix 6 cups cider, 1 to 2 sticks cinnamon and 1/2 teaspoon whole cloves. Heat in a saucepan until simmering. Variations: Add a twist of lemon or 6-ounce can of frozen lemonade concentrate, or eliminate spices and add 1/8 cup red cinnamon candies.

• Fill paper cups with cider, insert a wooden stick and freeze. That's a "cidersicle."

Main dishes

• Add cider to pickle relish to make it more flavorful on hamburgers or hot dogs, or add to dressing for potato salad.

• Cook meats in cider -- fish fillets (poach in it), whole ham, pork chops, pork roast, turkey, chicken, or add to meat loaf or other ground-meat dishes.

• Add cider to your favorite stuffing instead of the usual broth. It's great for stuffing pork, chicken and turkey.

Breads

• Prepare apple, oatmeal or other fruit muffins, biscuits, small loaves of bread, rolls, pancakes and waffles with cider instead of the usual liquid.

• Use cornstarch-thickened apple cider mixed with lemon juice as a hot syrup for pancakes, waffles and French toast.

Source: Westview Orchards in Washington Township

Apple Cider Pie

From Westview Orchards & Cider Mill of Washington Township

3 cups apple cider

Crust:

1/4 cup cold water

2 teaspoons cider vinegar

2 cups all-purpose flour

1/3 cup cold butter or regular stick margarine, cut in small pieces

1/4 cup Crisco

Filling:

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

5 large firm, tart apples (2 1/2 pounds)

3 large Yellow Delicious apples (1 1/2 pounds)

1 1/2 tablespoons granulated sugar

Boil apple cider in heavy saucepan about 20 minutes or until reduced to 1/2 cup. Cool about 20 minutes.

To make crust in food processor : Mix water and vinegar in a 1-cup measure. Process flour, butter and shortening with on/off turns until coarse crumbs form. With motor running add water mixture. Process just until dough leaves side of bowl.

By hand: Mix water and vinegar in a 1-cup measure. Put flour in a medium-size bowl. Cut in butter and shortening with pastry blender or 2 knives until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Stir in water mixture with fork until crumb clump together into a dough. Gather dough into a ball, divide in half, flatten each half into a disk and wrap in waxed paper. Refrigerate 45 minutes or until firm enough to roll.

Meanwhile prepare filling: Mix sugar, flour, cinnamon and nutmeg in a large bowl. Halve, core and peel apples. Cut each half in 1/2 -inch thick wedges, then cut wedges in half crosswise. Add to sugar mixture along with the reduced apple cider. Toss until evenly coated.

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Position rack in lowest part of oven. Have ready a 9-inch pie plate. On a lightly floured surface with lightly floured rolling pin, roll out half the dough to a 12-inch circle. Fit circle into pie plate. Spoon filling into pie shell, mounding it high in center.

Roll remaining dough into a 12-inch circle. Place over filling. Press edges together and roll up to form an even rim. Flute or crimp decoratively. Brush top with water, then sprinkle with the 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar. Cut slits in top for steam to escape.

Place pie on a cookie sheet to catch drips. Bake 25 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees. Bake 40 to 50 minutes longer until crust is golden brown, apples are tender when pierced through a slit and juices bubble. Remove to wire rack. Serve warm or cool completely. Makes 10 servings.

Per serving: 396 calories; 12 g fat (5 g saturated fat; 27 percent calories from fat); 72 g carbohydrates; 17 mg cholesterol; 69 mg sodium; 3 g protein; 5 g fiber.

Spiced Mulled Cider

Recipe courtesy of Captain Morgan rum

2 cups apple cider

1 cinnamon stick

2 tablespoons honey

1 tablespoon Tabasco green pepper sauce

1/4 cup Captain Morgan rum

Apple slices for garnish

Heat apple cider, cinnamon stick, honey and Tabasco sauce in 1-quart saucepan over high heat, to a boil. Reduce heat to low; simmer 5 minutes. Remove from heat; add rum. Pour into glasses. Serve warm; garnish with apple slices. Serves 2.

Per serving: 260 calories; 0 g fat (0 g saturated fat; 0 percent calories from fat); 50 g carbohydrates; 0 mg cholesterol; 56 mg sodium; 0.4 g protein; 1.5 g fiber.

Glazed Applesauce Drop Cookies

From Westview Orchards & Cider Mill of Washington Township

1/2 cup applesauce, unsweetened

1 cup firmly packed brown sugar

1/2 cup butter or margarine, softened

1 egg

1 3/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 tablespoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup chopped pecans or walnuts

Apple cider glaze:

1 cup confectioners' sugar

1 tablespoon butter , softened

1 1/2 tablespoons apple cider

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Combine the applesauce, brown sugar, butter and egg in a bowl and mix well. Stir in the flour, baking soda, salt and nuts. Chill. Cover for 1 to 24 hours. Drop the batter by rounded tablespoonful on an un-greased cookie sheet. Bake 10-12 minutes or until golden brown. Cool cookies. Meanwhile, stir together confectioners' sugar, butter, apple cider and vanilla for glaze. Spread glaze on top of each cookie. Makes 36 cookies.

Per serving: 104 calories; 5 g fat (2 g saturated fat; 43 percent calories from fat); 15 g carbohydrates; 14 mg cholesterol; 120 mg sodium; 1 g protein; 0.4 g fiber.

Apple Salad with Croutons and Cider Dressing

From Westview Orchards & Cider Mill of Washington Township

2 slices French bread, cubed (about 1 1/2 cups of 1/2 -inch cubes)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 cup blue cheese, divided

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup walnut pieces

1 tablespoon light brown sugar

1/4 teaspoon Essence (recipe follows)

2 medium-sweet apples, such as McIntosh or Fuji, cored and thinly sliced, with the peel on

5 tablespoons apple cider

1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/2 cup canola oil

1 tablespoon minced shallots

1/4 teaspoon salt

Pinch ground black pepper

6 cups mesclun

1/4 pound prosciutto, thinly sliced, then shredded

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

In a bowl, toss the bread with the olive oil. Add 3 tablespoons of the cheese and a pinch of salt and pepper and toss to coat the bread evenly.

Place on a baking sheet and bake until browned, stirring occasionally, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from the oven.

In a skillet, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter over medium-high heat. Add the walnuts and cook, stirring, until fragrant and lightly toasted, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the sugar and Essence, and cook, stirring, until the sugar is caramelized and the nuts are evenly coated, about 2 minutes. Remove from the pan and spread on a waxed paper lined plate. Separate with a fork and let cool.

Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter to the pan and add the sliced apples. Cook, stirring, until lightly caramelized on both sides, about 5 minutes. Remove from the pan.

In a small bowl, whisk together the apple cider, vinegar and mustard. Slowly drizzle in the oil, whisking constantly until it emulsifies. Add the shallots, salt, and pepper, and adjust the seasoning, to taste.

In a large bowl, combine the lettuces, prosciutto, and croutons, and toss with enough dressing to lightly coat. Adjust the seasoning, to taste. Place the apples in a small bowl and add enough dressing to coat.

Divide the lettuces among 6 salad plates and arrange the apple slices on top. Sprinkle the walnuts and remaining cheese over the apples. Sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper and serve. Yield: about 2/3 cup

Essence (Emeril's Creole Seasoning)

2 1/2 tablespoons paprika

2 tablespoons salt

2 tablespoons garlic powder

1 tablespoon black pepper

1 tablespoon onion powder

1 tablespoon cayenne pepper

1 tablespoon dried leaf oregano

1 tablespoon dried thyme

Combine all ingredients thoroughly and store in an airtight jar or container.

Per serving: 496 calories; 43 g fat (10 g saturated fat; 78 percent calories from fat); 20 g carbohydrates; 42 mg cholesterol; 726 mg sodium; 12 g protein; 3 g fiber.

Chunky Applesauce

Recipe from Katrina Schumacher, Westview Orchards

2 firm apples -- Granny Smith, Northern Spy, Ida Red,Winesap, Enterprise, Braeburn varieties

3 softer apples -- McIntosh, Cortland, Jonathan, Jonagold, Yellow Delicious

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

4 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons apple cider

Peel, core and cut apples into 3/4 -inch chunks. Melt butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Add apples, cinnamon, sugar and cider. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the apples are tender, about 10 minutes. Serve warm or chilled. Makes about 2 cups or 4 servings.

Per serving (per 1/2 cup): 174 calories; 4 g fat (2 g saturated fat; 21 percent calories from fat); 38 g carbohydrates; 8 mg cholesterol; 202 mg sodium; 0 g protein; 3 g fiber

klawson@detnews.com (313) 222-6026